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Freelander Spring
Lift: Ironman Springs Installation |
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The constant question that comes up with new Freelander owners- "Can
I lift my Freelander?"
There are two ways to lift a Freelander. The DAP lift (the
installation article is also posted on this site) and the new Ironman
Springs from Australia. Unfortunately they are not yet imported to the
United States, so we at FreelanderLiving.com (now MuddyOval.com) have
imported a dozen sets for our core group of off-roaders. So far, nothing
but positive reviews on the handling and performance.
Budget four hours for the installation if working at a leisurely
pace.
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Tools needed:
Spring Compressor
Various flat-head screwdrivers
Dremel w/ large cut-off disk
19mm combo wrench
18mm combo wrench
15mm combo wrench
Set of L-shaped metric hex keys
Set of hex key sockets
22mm, 21mm, 19mm, 18mm, 15mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm, 8mm sockets
Wobbly ratchet extension
T-20 driver
T-50 driver
1/2" and 3/8" ratchets
Breaker bar and hammer
Torque wrench - preferrable if it goes up to 150 lb-ft. The strut bolts
require 151!
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Starting on the rear struts first, crack the lug nuts
before lifting the rear and setting the Freelander securely on jack
stands.
The torx screws along the bottom of the door sill come out first,
then the side panels are released by twisting out the plastic retainers
and pulling the side panels outwards. |
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Here's a peak into the side panels...
That's the top of the strut- three nuts will set it free. There's no
need to completely remove the side panel as long as you are careful.
I prefer to unhook everything down below on the strut before
releasing these top bolts, but I also prefer getting the interior panels
unhooked before working on the much dirtier underside. |
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This is the rear strut as viewed from the rear.
If you look carefully at the bracket just below and to the right of
the hard brake line, you'll see the slot that we had to cut to release
the brake line from the strut. The other option is to unhook the brake
lines and bleed the brakes... no thanks.
Don't lose the brake line retainer clip!
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These two large bolts are all that holds the strut to
the lower suspension. An impact wrench makes them much easier, otherwise
have a breaker bar handy.
Unhook the plastic clips that hold the wire and the brake lines
together. |
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Here's where you have to be careful.
Before you pull the two large bolts out, bend the brake line bracket
so that you can gently wrangle the brake line free from the
strut.
Once it's free, slide to two bolts out and drop the strut from the
top. |
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Here's the top of the strut.
The top nut there is what holds all the tension of the spring when
the strut is out of the vehicle.
Two ways to remove it- impact wrench OR a box end wrench combined
with an hex socket inserted in the end to keep the strut shaft from
spinning. |
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Get the spring compressors cranked down until ALL the
pressure is taken off the strut top.
If you release the top nut and there is pressure on the top of the
strut- you're gonna get hurt.
Note that the Craftsman spring compressors in use here have safety
retainers... I've used the ones without safety retainers before and one
time the compressor came off the spring. It shot the spring across the
driveway, narrowly missing my head as it left the underside of the
truck. The heavy steel spring missed hitting my classic Mercedes by
about 4 inches.
Use a GOOD compressor. |
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Here's what you see when you remove the strut top.
Pay attention to how everything goes in there.
The dense foam part in there is the bump stop. It is absolutely
necessary and does not need to be modified. |
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These are the parts to the strut top.
It's important that they go back in the same place exactly the way
they came out. I placed them in order of removal from Left to Right.
Reassembly is the reverse order. |
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The finished rear strut!
Pop it back in... you remember how you got it out, right?
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| Now the rear struts are done, take a break.
The fronts are very similar once they are off the truck. The additional
removal of the anti-roll bar link and the tie rod add to the fun. On
the up-side, a compressor is only required to remove the stock spring.
The new spring can be installed without a compressor if you have someone
to push the spring down for you.
Now for the front... Remember to loosen the lug nuts on the ground
before you jack up the front!
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Disconnect the battery first (just the negative lead)
and then it's time to unbolt the fuse box.
Pop open the lid and remove the three nuts that hold the fuse box in
place.
Once free, you can reach the top of the strut underneath. There's a
plastic cover in there that keeps the wires from chaffing on the strut
bolts- make note of how it fits, it's imperative that you reinstall it. |
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Here's what you'll see underneath that fuse box.
I sure hope I never have to trace out any of those wires... |
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On the passenger side, the coolant bottle must be
relocated.
Instead of taking it out, we can push it aside if the plastic screw
is removed and the hose pulled from the retainer which holds it to the
fender.
A quick smack and the bottle pops free and can be pushed aside.
The plastic screw is a serious pain in the backside- it strips easily
of you don't use a sharp screwdriver. |
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Here we can see the removal of the anti-roll bar link.
The other end of the link can be removed, but this end is easier to get
to- whatever makes you happy.
The centre of the link has to be held in place with a hex driver to
get it apart.
Also visible here is the brake line and the wheel sensor line. Pop
the clip on the brake line and pull all the lines away from the strut. |
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Here is the tie rod. One of my least favourite parts of
the installation.
An impact wrench often can get the nuts off, otherwise use the same
technique as the anti-roll bar links.
I gave the parts a good soak in PB Blaster to get them free a tad
easier.
Be careful not to screw up the end link when you hammer it upwards-
it takes some serious pounding to get it free. Use a piece of wood or
something to protect the threads on the end link. |
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When things go wrong!
Valve Dude says "FIRE FIRE, BURN IT!"
The nut on one side got stuck- something came apart on
the plastic retainer inside the nut and it was starting to strip the end
link.
Propane torch- melted out the plastic and the nut came
right off. Need a new nut now though. |
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When the strut is off- note the arrow on the top. You
need to ensure the top of the strut is assembled correctly and the arrow
points the correct direction. |
| The front struts come apart and reassemble
exactly the same way as the rear struts, so it's fairly easy going.
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The end result:
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| There ya have it. About four hours later
the Freelander looks as it should have from the factory. Even a small
lift like 1.5" inches with this spring lift or the 2" lift with the DAP
spacers can make a huge difference off-road.
Unfortunately the springs are not readily available in the USA, but
if enough people want them we might place another bulk order. Individual
sets cost more to ship from Australia than the springs originally cost.
The DAP lift is the only one readily available.
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